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OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE NEW:
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR SKIN IN THE FALL SEASON
By
Patricia Bottero, CEO and Founder of eHarmonie.com

PART ONE: HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation is the appearance of dark spots on the face and body. It is always associated with UV exposure and one of the following:

  • Skin trauma: wounds, burns or acne scarring from excessive inflammation, often caused by picking at lesions and pimples.
  • Hormonal imbalance: possibly caused by birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy or pregnancy.
  • Photosensitivity: this is a reaction to a product ingredient that causes hypersensitivity when exposed to the sun. When following a photo-sensitive ingredient application (bergamot oil, for example) with sun exposure, the skin's melanocyte production is stimulated, thus producing the melanin pigment that creates skin color.

Hyperpigmentation can often be managed with a simple skin care regimen. Other times, you may have to resort to more dramatic medical procedures such as laser resurfacing or chemical peels.

Spa treatments for hyperpigmentation

At the spa, we have several treatments that will work to even out your skin tone and reduce or eliminate hyperpigmentation completely:

  • Lightening facial: After a deep cleansing, exfoliation, and an advanced treatment of the skin with vitamin C (an antioxidant serum), a more uniform skin tone can be expected. This is also a great treatment to maintain the results obtained with more intensive procedures.
  • Glycolic Acid resurfacing treatment: This treatment focuses on exfoliation by thoroughly removing the dead skin cells on the surface and contributing to cell turnover. It also helps control acne and prevent dehydration.
  • Micro-dermabrasion: An intense buffing system which involves projecting aluminum oxide crystals on to the skin's surface. Great results can be obtained for many hyper-pigmentated conditions- especially when used in association with a skin lightening home care program.

Treating hyperpigmentation at home

In order to maintain the results of your spa treatments, a certain amount of at home skin care is required. As you develop your home skin care regimen, be sure to include the following:

Step 1: Exfoliate. Deep cleansing and exfoliation is the first step to fighting hyperpigmentation. Use cleansing lotions that contain the following ingredients to help prep your skin for your chosen treatment.

  • Glycolic Acid: The smallest molecule of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family of ingredients, it is often favored by cosmetic companies for its fast absorption properties. However, great results can be obtained with other AHAs-it depends on what other ingredients are included, the delivery system, and the pH of the product.
  • Enzymes: They digest dead cells, providing a uniform exfoliation without any of the irritation caused by scrubbing. For a great routine exfoliation once or twice a week, enzymes are perfect.
  • Peels: An exfoliating mask works by trapping the dead skin cells while it dries. The dead cells are then removed by the mechanical action of "rubbing" off the mask.
  • Scrubs: Scrubs are usually more convenient to use, but if not used properly they will result in a non-uniform exfoliation. Scrubs containing fine grains are usually better. This is a great way to exfoliate your body and feet.

Step 2: Treatment. There are several approaches to treating hyperpigmentation with spa quality products.

  • Hydroquinone: Until recently, this was one of the most popular ingredients for the treatment of dark spots. It is still effective, but it's not always the most user-friendly product-it can be drying and irritating to certain skin types.
  • Kojic Acid: Kojic Acid is used to help inhibit the formation of melanin (skin darkening pigment).
  • Licorice Extract: It has a bleaching and pigmentation inhibiting effect.
  • Vitamin C: Ascorbic acid has many anti-aging properties. It is used in formulations to lighten dark pigmentation as well as help restore collagen fiber, thus contributing to the hydration and firming of the skin.
  • Glycolic Acid: Can be used to help lighten skin discoloration. It is also used in combination with other lightening ingredients to enhance their effectiveness by improving their absorption into the skin.

Step 3: Protect. One of the most important steps in reducing hyperpigmentation is sun protection. Even on fall and cloudy winter days, damaging UV rays are present. Even fluorescent lighting in your home and office produce UV rays. If your skin has the tendency to pigment, sunscreen should become a year-round ingredient in your daily skin care routine. In order to find the perfect sunscreen for your skin type, you may have to try several formulations. Understand that the higher the SPF, the more likely it is that skin irritating ingredients are present in the formulation-and the increased length of sun protection may only be an additional 10 minutes a day. Use sunscreen with an SPF of 15 to 20 daily. Save your sunscreens with an SPF of 35 or higher for extreme cases of exposure such as when you're on vacation at the ocean, in the tropics or mountains, or planning a game of golf. If your skin is extremely sensitive to chemical sunscreen ingredients, look for a sunscreen that also includes physical sunscreen ingredients in the formulation such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Both are non- irritating and effectively repel the epidermis-damaging UVA rays. For additional protection, choose a makeup foundation and powder that also contain sun protection.

>> PART II: Seasonal Acne Flare-ups (next) >>

<< INTRO: Article Introduction (previous) <<

    RECOMMENDATIONS FOR
    HYPERPIGMENTATION


    Cleansing & Exfoliation

     Cellex-C

     Gentle Cleansing Milk

     Fade Away Gel

     Fresh Complexion Mist

     High Potency Serum

     Decleor

     Phytopeel

     Exfoliating Face Gel

     Whitening Tonic

     Whitening Cleanser

     Jan Marini

     Bioclean Cleanser

     Clean Zyme Papaya Cleanser

     Skin Zyme Papaya Mask

     Md Formulations

     Facial Cleanser
     (12 Percent Compound)

     Payot

     Gommage Douceur


    TREATMENT FOR
    HYPERPIGMENTATION


     Decleor

     Whitening And Purifying Mask

     Whitening Aromessence

     Whitening Day Emulsion

     Whitening Day Cream SPF 12

     Whitening Night Cream

     Whitening Vitamin C Complex Powder

     Jan Marini

     Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant
     SPF 30

     Even Tone Lightening Gel

     C-Esta Serum

     Md Formulations

     Skin Bleaching Gel (10 Pct..l)

     SPF 20 Sunblock

     Total Daily Protector SPF 15

     Murad

     Age Spot And Pigment Lightening Gel
     Clarifying Gel Hydroquinone Free

     Environmental Shield Essential Day
     Moisturizer SPF 15

     Payot-Paris

     Serum Depigmentant


    Protection

     Harmonie

     Protegé SPF 30

     Tous Les Jours SPF 18

     Jane Iredale

     Pressed powders
     Loose powders

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