You pride yourself on taking good care of your skin. You've done the research to find just the right cleanser, toner and moisturizer and you're faithful to your skin care regimen. So why, suddenly, your skin feels like sandpaper, looks dehydrated and dry, and blackheads are more visible? Most likely you're in need of a good exfoliation treatment.

When Good Cells Go Bad

Exfoliation is your body's natural process of constantly shedding the outermost layer of dead skin cells while creating brand new cells underneath. Every minute, your body sheds millions of dead cells. In a perfect world, these cells would all fall off and the next layer of living skin would take center stage. Unfortunately, the dead cells don't always know when to retire, so they hang around and start causing trouble. Consequently, your pores get clogged with debris, excess sebum and trapped bacteria, fine lines appear, and your moisturizer can't get though to nourish the healthy skin. While it's true that washing daily does remove a large portion of these cells, even the best washcloth can't remove them all. A dry atmosphere (central heating), skin care products that contain drying agents (such as alcohol), the change of seasons, sickness, sunburn, and some medications can all contribute to excessive cell buildup, making matters even worse.

Exfoliators To The Rescue!

The secret to maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin is to occasionally kick start your body's cell renewal process. Exfoliating treatments are specifically formulated to thoroughly remove the entire layer of dead cells to reveal the shiny new skin underneath. In some cases, a more aggressive spa treatment like Micro- Dermabrasion is needed when the cell buildup is really thick. If you're not sure what kind of exfoliation treatment would be best for your skin type, be sure to consult your esthetician before trying something out. Below are some suggestions:

Exfoliating Ingredients and Products To Look For

Enzymes: Enzymes are biological catalysts that "digest" dead cells when applied to the skin. An enzyme mask can be included in your facial to increase the exfoliating properties of the treatment. Enzymes can also be found in home care formulations such as masks, creams and cleansers.

Scrubs: An exfoliating facial or body scrub contains small particles that mechanically remove dead skin cells though friction. The most effective scrubs contain small particles that provide a thorough and even exfoliation. Body scrubs contain larger scrubbing particles such as sea salt. When applying a mechanical exfoliator you don't need to use a lot of pressure. If you do, you'll end up removing healthy cells and irritating your skin.

Facial Masks and Peeling Creams: These products can contain cell-digesting enzymes or clays that captures the dead cells so that they are removed when you rub off the mask. Vinyl agents work using the same principle; the dead cells are removed when you "peel off" the mask.

Glycolic Acid and other Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Glycolic Acid is one of the most effective AHAs for shedding dead skin because of the small size of its molecule. It works by breaking down the glue-like substance that forms between "shingles" of dead cells, making them easier to remove. Glycolic acid can be used daily in cleansers, moisturizers, body scrubs, shampoos and foot creams (to remove calluses). To be effective, these formulations need to contain at least 10% Glycolic Acid and have an acidic pH of 3.5. As a clinical treatment, glycolic acid is available from your esthetician or dermatologist.

Tretinoid (Vitamin A): Tretinoin is a synthetic derivative of vitamin A. It is a powerful exfoliating agent that also breaks down the glue-like bonds between dead cells, stimulates cell renewal and contributes to the thickening of the epidermis to produce a smoother looking complexion. Tretinoid is also known to reduce acne.

Micro-Dermabrasion: Micro-Dermabrasion is an intense skin buffing process that gently abrades the superficial layers of the skin. Micro-crystals are projected on to the skin's surface and then vacuumed off. The procedure is painless and can be done as a series of three to nine weekly treatments, or as a single exfoliating treatment received quarterly or monthly.

Exfoliating Tips For Your At Home Skin Care Routine

• Cleanse and tone your skin daily, especially with a cleanser containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
• Give yourself a weekly mini-facial with a peeling cream or scrub, followed by a hydrating mask. Be sure to moderately use scrubs so as to not irritate your skin.
• Use moisturizers and serums daily that are formulated to exfoliate while hydrating your skin, such as AHAs or retinoids.
• If your scalp seems dry, use a shampoo containing Glycolic Acid.
• For the body, use scrubs or sea salts in the shower. These will remove dead skin quickly and help your new skin absorb moisturizers more effectively.
• Use a body lotion containing AHAs to help reduce surface dryness and even prevent ingrown hairs.
• For the feet, hands and cuticles: These areas also benefit from exfoliation. If dry hands or hangnails are plaguing you, switch to a cream containing AHA and you'll be amazed at the difference! Foot creams with AHA can contain up to 18 % Glycolic Acid and are very effective.

Spa Treatments

• A deep cleansing facial including an enzyme mask will remove comedons (blackheads), excess sebum and cell buildup.
• A single micro-dermabrasion session can give your skin an instant glow and provide a clean slate for your skin care routine.
• An alpha hydroxy acid resurfacing treatment performed at your favorite spa or dermatologist's office is also an excellent way to reset your skin's renewal process. Before your procedure, you should use a spa quality or dermatologist recommended AHA product for at least two weeks. This will help to insure that your skin is accustomed to AHAs.

The harsh weather of winter and the dry air of central heating systems often cause cell buildup to occur, so before you break out those revealing warm weather fashions, do a little personal spring cleaning - it's out with the old cells, in with the new! Exfoliate!

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